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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.